19 SEPTEMBER 2024
WHY DID AN ARBITRARY CHART MAKE ME A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SIZE?
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When I first started designing for a yarn shop (The Yarn Store, 135 East 65th street, New York City) I never had to think about what size a customer wore because the pattern was always custom writtern. Either they would make the sweater from the sample I knit, bring in a picture or describe what they had in mind. I then measured the customer. ( most yarn shops measured their customes and wrote patterns to size). A perfect fit was expected as long as the gauge was maintained.
I would measure all the necessary parts of the body that were essentail to the particular style. In most cases the bust or chest, the shoulders across the back from bone to bone, the arm length from that same bone to wrist or where they wanted the sleeve to end and for the finished length, from the center of the shoulder to desired finished length.
In addition, if a style came in at the waist with darts or side shaping, from the shoulder to the natural waist and any other measurements unique to the styleWhen I opened my own shop (The Woodgathering, 318 East 84th street, New York City), I still custom wrote over 90% of the patterns.
After moving to Arizona and opening (knitting in scottsdale, 7116 East Mercer Lane, Scottsdale, AZ) I continued to write most patterns.
Honestly that was easy compared to writing patterns following an arbitrary chart with the average size for woman based on their bust size.
Women's clothing sizes are inconsistent for two reasons:
1. FINANCIAL
FROM TIME MAGAZINE
DECEMBER 25, 1939
Altering garments to fit the infinite variety of women’s figures keeps a great many people busy; but it annually costs U. S. manufacturers an estimated $10,000,000. Nobody sympathized with them until they appealed to the Government. The Government agreed that something ought to be done.
This week the Department of Agriculture and the Works Progress Administration (WPA) in New Jersey set about getting women’s figures taped; they started a WPA project to measure 100,000 women. Later this research will be continued in five other States. Each subject—matron, maid, scrubwoman, show girl—will be taped in 59 different places, special recordings made to check the “sitting spread.” The purpose: to create a new, unified system of sizing women’s clothing.
No mere boondoggling in New Jersey’s waistlands was this latest WPA project. Hope of the sponsors was that this survey would result in making everybody happier, some people better dressed.
The data of 15,000 women was collected by Ruth O’Brien and William Shelton, and while the project was impressive — “especially considering they didn’t have computers to analyze the data,” Boorady says — it didn’t exactly solve the problem.
“It was flawed for many reasons,” agrees Parsons School of Fashion professor Beth Dincuff Charleston. “They didn’t really get a cross-section of American women… It was smaller than what the national average should be.”
Since the survey was done on a volunteer basis, it was largely made up of women of a lower socioeconomic status who needed the participation fee. It was also primarily white women and the measurements still primarily relied on bust size, assuming women had an hourglass figure.
Then in the late 1940s, the Mail-Order Association of America, representing catalog businesses including Sears Roebuck, enlisted the help of the National Bureau of Standards (now the National Institute of Standards and Technology) to reanalyze the sizing — often using the measurements of women who had served in the air force, some of the most fit people in the country — creating a 1958 standard that was largely arbitrary. Sizes ranged from 8 to 38 with height indications of tall (T), regular (R), and short (S), and a plus or minus sign when referring to girth.
2. VANITY SIZING
This practice is designed to make wearers feel better about themselves by associating themselves with a smaller size. For example, a dress that measured a size 12 in 1958 might be a size 6 by 2011. Studies have shown that shoppers may prefer smaller sizes because they boost confidence. Some clothing manufactures even keep adding an additional zero to their size range, even though they already made that exact size with one less zero. I wonder how many zeros will fit on their label.
Possibly when women finish fighting for all the rights we have always deserved, we can fight for a convenience. STANDARD US MEASUREMENTS FOR READY TO WEAR CLOTHING, SEWING AND KNIT PATTERNS.
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Advice when knitting or crocheting a vintage pattern - SWATCH! Know your key body measurements and be ready to make adjustments in the number of stitches and rows when you are creating a garment to fit.
We can see size inflation happening over shorter time spans as well; a size 2 in the 2011 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) falls between a 1995 standard size 4 and 6. That means that ideals are changing too. We went from size 16 being a model in the ’40s to 12 in the ’60s. Marilyn Monroe was a 12 in the ’60s, which would now be a size 6.”
After reading many articles on sizing standards. I realize there really are none that are followed diligently.
I use and will continue to use the actual body measurements, from the Craft Yarn Council. Their measurements' are very inclusive from a 28 inch (71.1 cm) bust to a 62 inch-(157.4 cm) bust. I then work on the design adding the amount of ease I want for the particular design.
Subtract the actual body measurements from the garment specific measurements on the schematic with size chart to see the actual ease included in the design. Because everyone prefers a different finished look, it can help you choose the look you prefer.
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SEPTEMBER 2024
MY NEW BLUE BABY BLANKET
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I always get excited to start a new project. I made a sample gauge for the new baby blanket, picked out a new audio book to listen to as I knit.
Unfortunately my new project has not grown much since I started it.
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NOTE: I might not work this edging around the finished blanket. I think I will work three rows of single crochet in the Main Color around. Then with a Contrasting Color work a simple running stitch through the second row of the single crochet.
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My routine was; I worked on my website, sent out emails, created a new design, knit the sample as I listen to a new audio book, I would then write the new pattern. When the pattern was completed I took a photo and posted it on the website. I was happy and ready to get excited about a new project.
But
For some unknown reason I woke up one morning and thought:
- I want to proof read all my patterns and put them into a different format.
- I want to completely overhaul the website. Change is always good?
- Why not have a blog attached to my website? I never thought of having one, much to revealing of oneself.
- I was not on social media. Then I thought why not?
- I should improve my photography skills, they are absolutely lacking. Trial, error and sometimes success, thanks to google, have been my teacher.
- I have not been very social since closing my shop, where I made friends, and decided that after I finish the tasks above I would join a book club or a knitting group, or maybe even both.
I will never believe I have BITTEN OFF MORE THAN I CAN CHEW
As the statement suggests, it basically refers to a situation where you took up many tasks for yourself, but aren’t able to complete them
This could normally happen because of:
A. Lack of time management
B. Over-enthusiasm
C. Tasks having taken up more time than planned
At 81 years old and checking off yes to A, B and C, I believe that I will always finish what I start. Maybe a very unrealistic trait, who cares? It works for me!
With all these ideas and no thought over the work involved, I plunged right in.
How do I think I am doing?
- I had 268 patterns on my previous website. So far 76 are proofread and on my new website, 23 of which are on my Instagram account. I am definitely not going to include all 268 patterns, as I eliminate some that did not do well.
- I admit I can't, and do not want to, do the technical stuff involved with the website. My unflappable brother does that.
- I enjoy talking to people on the grocery store checkout line now.
- I think I like social media less now than before I had an account on Instagram. Please click Follow and Like on my account. I do know that having people follow you on your social media account is a good thing. I might even start understanding it and even liking it.
- I really enjoy experimenting with photoshop. By just clicking a button that I have no idea what it is for, sometimes, less times than more times, it leads to a great piece of Photoshop knowledge and gives me so much satisfaction. I am also trying to understand the techniques that I look up and read about.
- I believe that I will really enjoy being more social.
Please root for the completion of my blue blanket and all the original designs I can't wait to start. The blanket already has a style number, CB011, and a name, pat-a-cake.
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AUGUST 2024
SIX GENERATIONS OF MAKERS |
The first person I heard referred to as having "Golden Hands" was a great aunt, Rebecca, (my maternal grandfather's sister), who lived in Romania and did fine hand needle work for King Carol I. This is a sample of her handiwork.
I was given this beautiful sample of her cut work, Richelieu or Reticella, by my grandmother, also a Rebecca (married to the brother of number 1).
I believe if you can create such an intricate piece of cut work embroidery you can excel in most fiber arts.
I found this as part of an article on the internet, by Andreea Sofronea
"The Romanian countryside is forever linked, in my mind, to traditional crafts of sewing, embroidery and knitting." On a SHE MAKES TOUR to Borlesti to meet with locals carrying on traditional wool production techniques, she said, "I relived moments from my childhood sitting at my grandmother’s side, learning from her". |
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2. Rebecca – grandmother: knitted, most often using Melrose Cravenella yarn-* (see below). She and her friends were always working on two piece Chanel style suits.
3. Etta – mother:
knitted whenever she had the time. I loved, when I woke up in the morning and my dolls had new hand knit cardigans.
4. Roberta - (that’s me):
I adore everything about knitting. From the excitement of being inspired to create a new design, to the completion of the design. I also, very much, enjoy writing the pattern. Taking the photo, not so much, not even a little. For complete transparency I added the skeins of yarn on the table with photo shop, just to practice.
5. Karen – daughter:
At this age she was already knitting with her Mattel Knit Magic knitting machine toy.
6. Rebecca (the third Rebecca) – granddaughter:
She probably will surpass us all
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THE YARN STORE |
THE WOOLGATHERING
REBECCA-ROBERTA-KAREN |
KNITTING IN SCOTTSDALE
ROBERTA-REBECCA-KAREN |
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Knit by Roberta when Rebecca was born. Knit in Stacy Charles 100% Merino DK
click for details |
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Knit by Karen for future grandchildren Knit in Plymouth's Oceanside Organic cotton – DK weight |
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Rebecca was in the process, but the strips were not crocheted together yet because the school term started. She is making the Adult version of the Sampler afthan. Knit in Berroco's pure merino – worsted weight.
It is now finished and beautiful. |
* CRAVENELLA - A LONG AGO MEMORY
Melrose Yarn Company was still in business when I began custom writing patterns. It was so popular to knit Chanel style suits. I don't know if knitting Chanel style suits were as popular elsewhere, as they were on the upper east side of New York City. I was constantly custom writing the suits, jacket and skirt.
Then someone at Melrose Yarns came up with the best idea in the world for everyone who made the two piece outfits.
They would machine knit the customer's choice of three style skirts (I don't remember if there were more), straight, A-line, and a knife pleated skirt. They also made pants. Melrose required very specific measurments of the customer's body. The customer would purchase enough yarn required to insure the same dye lot. Many knitters, because they did not have to knit the skirt, they also made a pullover. Worn with a belt, it look exactly like a dress. It was so versatile, having a suit, and a dress.
I tried to look on the internet to see any information about this wonderful service. I found nothing.
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JULY 2024
INSPIRATION
Inspiration can strike at any time or place and from the most unexpected things.
- A stitch
- A technique
- A beautiful and interesting yarn
- A pretty piece of crockery
- The colors of nature
- A design inspired by a sweater seen on a person or in a shop and your creation not a carbon copy but an original work inspired from a similar creativity.
I do not carry through with every inspiration. If some time passes and I am not as excited about a design; I either forget about it or revise it.
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INSPIRATION:
A THERMAL UNDERSHIRT |
AN ADORABLE PULLOVER
CS053 trix
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Some ideas are lingering for years. Which means I have not dismissed just not created it yet. One such for me is a common paper grocery store bag that I had carried thousands of times. All of a sudden it hit me while walking home from the store carrying a bag full of groceries. I don't know if others get a little twist in the belly when they get an idea that excites them. Suddenly I wanted that color combination in a sweater. Not even thinking of the style yet. I knew I wanted a matte parchment color linen for the main part of the sweater and red for the trim. I was not very successful finding the perfect color and texture I wanted. I put the idea away with a cut section of the bag in a plastic page protector in my binder labeled inspirations
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I never realized the familiar grocery store bag has been inspiration to others, including ceramic artists. That was wrong of me to think that, especially after seeing all the beautiful ceramic versions of grocery store bag vases by different artists. I would love to have one.
The little French sewing kit, also, must have been inspired by grocery store paper bag colors. I remember the top of the grocery bag having the same pinking shears zigzag edge in red as the sewing kit. I would definitely incorporate it into the edge with a picot edge.
In most instances, a small store logo in the same red was somewhere on the bag. The A&P might be too much because not everyone is familiar with the now non existing A&P. Maybe the knitter's initials would be more appropriate using duplicate stitch to add to the sweater.
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It can be placed on the underside of the left cuff if the sweater is long sleeves, or if the design is sleeveless or a tank top it can be placed above the ribbing near the left side seam. The knitter may choose where to place a logo or none at all. An example of my initials is shown on the left.
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When I had my New York City shop a customer who was an avid knitter was down-sizing her living situation. She asked me if I would like her collection of Vogue Knitting magazines. Of course I would love them! Her collection went back to the 1930's. I treasured them. During relocation and various moves the magazines ended up in my storage unit.
I was recently thinking about the magazines and retrieved them and brought them home. What a treasure chest of designs and what a difference in knit fashion.
I thought, wouldn't it be fun, starting with the oldest edition, to pick out one, (and only one from the entire issue) a technique, a detail, or a stitch etc. to use in a new design. My design would not have to be the same type of item (some detail from an afghan might spark an idea for a pullover with some connection to the afghan). The technique, detail or stitch would have to be noticeably coming from the old item. I would post the original item and what I am taking from it, and then post my progress with photos.
I can't wait to start but I am still working on formatting my most popular patterns. I am also looking for, affordable, help with social media as a way of having more knitters get to know about my website.
I find the marketing using social media and the technical computer stuff (my brother Mitchell does the technical stuff) the most difficult part of having a website.
Once being inspired, the designing, the actual knitting, the writing and even the proof-reading the pattern is enjoyable. Taking the photo (not my favorite, but trying to get better).
I am sure just going through your normal routine today you will find so many different things to be inspired by. |
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e-mail: knitinscotts@cox.net
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